Retinol

What is retinol and what does it do?

Retinol is a precursor of retinoic acid, the active form of vitamin A. Once absorbed, skin enzymes convert it in two steps into retinoic acid, which binds nuclear receptors and changes gene expression in skin cells. The result is faster cell turnover, a more even outer layer, increased production of collagen in the dermis and reduced breakdown of existing collagen. Because only a fraction is converted, retinol acts more gently and slowly than prescription tretinoin. It is used for fine lines, rough texture, uneven tone, enlarged-looking pores and as maintenance for acne-prone skin. Night use is usual because retinoids degrade in light. [1]

“Much of the published work is industry-funded and uses varied formulations, so results from one product do not automatically transfer to another.”

Dr Sin YongOn topical retinol evidence

What does the evidence show?

A randomised, vehicle-controlled trial in older adults showed that 0.4% retinol increased collagen and improved fine wrinkling over 24 weeks, and other controlled studies report similar changes in photoaged skin. Reviews conclude that retinol produces the same type of effect as tretinoin but at a lower magnitude, with less irritation. Much of the published work is industry-funded and uses varied formulations, so results from one product do not automatically transfer to another.

Who should avoid retinol?

Avoid during pregnancy and when trying to conceive, as a precaution common to all retinoids, and generally while breastfeeding unless a doctor advises otherwise. People with eczema, rosacea flares, very sensitive skin or recent procedures may find it irritating. Start slowly, a few nights a week, and stop if peeling, burning or redness persists.

Is retinol available in Singapore?

Retinol is permitted as a cosmetic ingredient and is widely sold in Singapore in serums and night creams. Some regulators have introduced maximum retinol concentrations for cosmetics, so permitted strengths may change; it is different from prescription retinoic acid. If unsure about a product's strength or suitability, check with a doctor or pharmacist.

If a dark patch, breakout or irritation is not responding to what you are using, the next step is a diagnosis rather than another product. See the Skin A–Z library for related ingredients.