What is salicylic acid and what does it do?
Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid related to aspirin. Unlike water-soluble alpha hydroxy acids, it is lipid-soluble, so it penetrates the oil inside pores and loosens the plug of dead cells and sebum that forms blackheads and whiteheads. It is keratolytic, meaning it softens and sheds thickened skin, which is also why stronger preparations are used for warts, calluses and scaly scalp conditions. It has mild anti-inflammatory effects. In clinics, salicylic acid peels are used for acne and oily skin, including in darker skin types, as it tends to cause less irritation than some other peels at comparable depth. [1]
“Unlike water-soluble alpha hydroxy acids, it is lipid-soluble, so it penetrates the oil inside pores and loosens the plug of dead cells and sebum that forms blackheads and whiteheads.”
Dr Sin YongOn salicylic acid versus AHAs
What does the evidence show?
A Cochrane systematic review found low-certainty evidence that salicylic acid helps acne, with few high-quality trials. Reviews of salicylic acid peels report benefit for acne, oily skin and some pigmentation, mostly from small comparative and open studies. Its keratolytic effect is well established pharmacologically. It is reasonable for mild comedonal acne, but moderate or scarring acne usually needs more than salicylic acid alone.
Who should avoid salicylic acid?
People with a salicylate or aspirin allergy should avoid it. Use over large areas or under occlusion can, rarely, lead to salicylate toxicity, so large-area peels are a medical decision. Pregnant women should limit use to small areas of low-strength products and check with a doctor. Dry, eczema-prone or sensitive skin may become irritated.
Is salicylic acid available in Singapore?
Salicylic acid is permitted in cosmetic products in Singapore within concentration limits set under the ASEAN cosmetic rules that Singapore follows, typically up to 2% in face products. Stronger preparations, such as wart treatments and clinic peels, are outside everyday cosmetics. Check with a pharmacist or doctor if unsure about a product.
If a dark patch, breakout or irritation is not responding to what you are using, the next step is a diagnosis rather than another product. See the Skin A–Z library for related ingredients.
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